Finding the Through Line

I’ve long been a fan of the Miu Miu/Prada design element through lines. Whether it was design inspiration like fairies and flowers, down to straps and materials.

In the latest collection for Miu Miu Fall 2022, Miuccia has continued to use one of my favorite elements… socks. And when perfectly paired with a heel, it’s hard to resist.

Ever since at least Fall 2007, in both the Prada and Miu Miu shows, they were a feature. And made for one of the best seasons I think they’ve had or have had in years. I know I myself bought at least 3 pairs from Miu Miu that season.

The Miu Miu look started with a very masculine wink using broguing paired with soft neutrals and pastels and fanciful wings.

Miu Miu via Vogue Fall 2007

While Prada went a bit edgier with darker ombre tones and bold colored socks with open toes paired with peep-toe heels.

Prada via Vogue Fall 2007

They kept the sock/heel trend pairing well into shows in 2018 where I was struck by the combination of athletic-influenced socks worn with a traditionally feminine kitten heel and slingback shoe which had this wonderful technical rubberized strap which elevated it from a mere simple pump.

One other subtle element that ties the two brands together are the striking sculpted heels. While Prada was leaning into athleticism, in Fall 2016, Miu Miu was going full princess with big bows on sweet round-toed heels in the most delicious satins, paired with jewels and sculpted metal caps. I loved so many of the colors and was hoping the vertiginous heel heights would make it to production, I felt the candy pink version was the best. A pair that made it into the top 5 of my Under Glass Collection.

The latest addition the my Miu Miu/Prada design chronology is the satin ballet slipper from Miu Miu. Seen as early as Spring 2016, they were paired with mismatched ribbons and grommeted buckle straps, lending a toughness to a traditionally sweet shape.

Miu Miu via Vogue Spring 2016

Now those designs are back in flats and heels for the Fall 2022 Miu Miu show, paired with retro mini skirts but with great socks. Satin, socks, sculpted heels continued on from 2016, yet still fresh and desirable.

Miu Miu via Vogue Fall 2022
Miu Miu via Vogue Fall 2022

But I, of course preferred the heel version…

I’ve stocked up on socks. It’s fun that I can be my own through line over the 15 years of style seasons.

Hey, Stud! – A shocking surprise at The Museum at FIT

In my previous post where I reviewed the “Shoes: Anatomy, Identity, Magic” exhibition at The Museum at FIT, I alluded to a shocking surprise I discovered when entering the exhibit.

I expected to see a range of styles and to be familiar with all or most, and when I walked up to this particular display, even from several steps away, I knew what I was seeing before I got close but I was WRONG!

The shoes in question…

I recognize those boots… They’re the Chloé Susanna boot. Introduced in 2008 and still going strong in 2022 with multiple color options available in top end stores but also relentlessly duped.

Chloé Susanna boots in black and gold, 2022

But then I looked at the caption and my mind was blown:

Versace! MEN’s! 1992!!!!

How is this possible. I mean, look at them. Those are near on identical.

I don’t follow men’s fashion much. And in 1992 I was no where near literate about fashion, especially Versace. But how I have never even heard a whiff of a rumor about this???

So I had to do more digging to see what was happening with Versace men’s runway for Spring 1992 and it is real. This show was covered in gold stud work. It was the central theme in my opinion. I mean, check out this jacket I found on Etsy from a reseller/OG owner:

Then I struck GOLD!

Full video on YouTube

This is definitely the season and around the 9:00min mark is when you start to see the pieces with the Greek key design in studded leather, specifically the jackets. What. A. Show.

Not sure if anyone else will find this as mind-blowing as me but hey, this is why I love shoes!

Added bonus: Here’s the Vogue coverage of the Versace women’s Spring 1992 collection.

Making More with Miu Miu – Miu Miu Fall 2015 RTW Buckle Pumps

I have long been a fan of Miu Miu, especially the shoes that get sent down the runway each season, probably to my detriment.

But Miuccia is such an amazing designer and her eye for detail and continuity is so strong and really just amazing, that it’s difficult for me to pass up.

The Fall 2015 RTW Collection was no exception.

This may be my favorite quote about a runway show in recent memory –
“As is often the case in Pradaland, there is always a drop of poison with the sugar-candy consumer desirability of this clothing—and that is what makes it all the more addictive, of course.”

Hmmm… maybe that’s my new aesthetic guiding principle right there. 

But the designs took the mid-century look and exploded it out with color and excess…

…and Glitter!!!!

Miu Miu does the best glitter. I’m kicking myself that I didn’t get one of these two pairs.

 But I did end up with a piece that brings the excess of the runway down into a beautiful pump that I can’t stop wearing and the embraces the pink that is very of the moment.

The buckles on the runway were large and colorful and paired with fuzzy heels (which I actually do like but didn’t fee quite me).

This pair, which I’m adoring more each day, are simpler.

I’m wearing them with Erin Fetherston dresses and JCrew striped Tippi sweaters paired with cropped jeans. They’ve been summer but they’re going to stay on through Fall again and into Spring.

I can’t wait.

Future Acquisitions for Curated Collections – Christopher Kane Irregular Stitching Boot

It’s not often that a shoe stops me flat.
Sure there are those that catch my eye. That stand out. That make me say “Gimme!”

But this Christopher Kane boot is different.

And that’s precisely what stopped me.

It’s edgy not elegant. It’s a bit wacky. A bit weird. A lot not my style.

But it is innovative. And unique. And special.

It’s a shoe that make me want to have it in the collection. Not just to wear but to curate. It feels like a design acquisition even more than an awesome shoe to wear. 

I’m not sure if I’ll get them But I feel like I kind of need them. They’re one of those interesting shoes you’ll seen in fashion design books where they give historical context and retrospectives.

They touchstone in the evolution of shoes… and I want them.

The Best of Boot Season

Boots can be tricky but when good, are so so very good. I’ve been expanding my boot wardrobe over the years. And I’m well covered with flat boots – from the  Frye Melissas to the Stuart Weitzman 50/50 black boots, as well as the Betsey Johnson Fall 2011 Rally boots in black and tan.

And who could forget the Ann Demeulemester triple laced-boots.

But for heeled boots, I’ve been bereft, since my Nine West ones completely died.   I’ve been waiting to find boot perfection and this season, it’s happened twice.

First with the Sergio Rossi Secret OTK boots in burgundy.   Amazing in person and on.   Love them….

And then,  while about to give up hope on the right talk black heeled boots, I saw the ribbon laced-up boots from the Chloe Fall 2015 RTW runway.

 So yeah, black versions. Love them!

A great pair of boots is like getting super powers. They make you feel awesome!

Dalek Dots Define

When I first saw the runway shots from Valentino’s Fall/Winter 2014, all I could think was really elegant Daleks.

The great thing is…. I love the Daleks.  They’re so evil and snarky.  My people!

Now the question is, do I want the mary janes or the booties.  The mary janes are more practical but I’m in love with the booties.

Aww, hell, maybe I need both.

Rocking the Studs

When the limited edition (love those two words) Red on Red Valentino Rockstud heels came out, I was  a bit smitten but sadly, they were none of the kitten heels in my size. They were created to celebrate the new Valentino online Shoe Room and only 100 made.

I did get the heel version but, while they are very pretty, I prefer the kitten heel version more.  When you have a powerful design like a red, strappy, studded heel it helps to tone it down a little bit with the  lower heel version.

When I was all sad and bemoaning the fact that I returned my pair, I watched the Spring/Summer RTW show and spied the crystal version of my heels. Paired with embellished clear minaudieres and peek-a-boo dress seaming, were these subtle whispers.

Luckily Moda Operandi is bringing this magical collection to us.  So, I quite possibly have pre-ordered a pair.

Now I just have to wait until next spring for my glass slippers to wing their way to my door.

Matching Philosophies

This post is entirely too image-heavy but I can’t help it.  I’m totally smitten with basically every look that came out of the Philosophy show

I too am a bit surprised that this is a Fall show but I’d buy this and save it for the following Spring. I’m, admittedly, not the best at mixing patters or layering.  I’m more the matchey-matchey type and this tonal look from coats to dresses to tights down to adorable wingtip and multi-strap mary janes is right up my alley. I better start saving now because I really think I need every piece.  And with shoes in this many gorgeous, coordinated shades, I can’t skimp in that department either.

But let’s just get on with the pretty pictures, shall we…

All I can say is, Le Sigh!

Planning for Poverty: Prada and Miu Miu Spring 2011

I am no longer allowed to look at the Prad and Miu Miu runway collections.  I just seem to want almost every pair of shoes each season.  It really is a problem.  They are just too good. 

I love Miuccia knows the way to my heart… it’s through her shoes.   I love that each season is brand new but that you can also see the cues evolving from previous years and between the Prada and Miu Miu collections.

This season the Prada collection plays with the bold colors and patterns for Spring but evolves the classic 40s-50s shapes from Fall into the more streamlined and even quirky tropical looks from the mid-to-late 50s.

I will be getting one of those straw pairs (probably red) and the chartreuse and black stripe mary janes.  Ummm hmm..
But then at Miu Miu you see those same bright colors amped up to near florescence with black and metallic.  The wingtip elements and multi-strap mary janes are back and even more strappy!  There’s even a bit of the tea cups/candlesticks in the Art Deco swirls and angles as well as some of the Prada “fairy” collection in the cutouts.

There are so many to love but I think the hot pink and black ones just above are my favorites.  But I might need the green/silver/black ones too.
These collections caused a bit of a stir and, I think, rightly so.  The clothes were vibrant and playfully patterned, which appealed to me.  I could see myself wearing a few of those outfits.  But the shoes, again the shoes are a home run.

Feature Shoe – Miu Miu Spring 2007 RTW Double-strap Mary Jane

Does everyone remember the Miu Miu Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear collection.  Probably what is most memorable for me were the Lindsay Lohan ads and the great shoes, including the satin contrast-toe platforms and the double-strap mary janes.

I think this was the beginning of my love for Miu Miu.  Since then they have had amazing shoes every season.  I typically try to get at least one pair.
I waited for a while to get any of these even though I was totally smitten with the double strap mary janes.  I especially loved the silver and the baby blue.  When I finally got around to calling the Miu Miu store in New York it was near the end of the season.  I asked if they had anything left in my size and they said they had limited sizes left.  When they said they had a 6 in silver… and marked down… I pounced!!!

I’ve searched all over the internet and never see any non-runway shots of these shoes so here we go!  They need to be curated.

I’d also still love to get my hands on a pair of the sky blue version.  I’ve been looking for ages.  So if you see any, let me know!