Finding the Through Line

I’ve long been a fan of the Miu Miu/Prada design element through lines. Whether it was design inspiration like fairies and flowers, down to straps and materials.

In the latest collection for Miu Miu Fall 2022, Miuccia has continued to use one of my favorite elements… socks. And when perfectly paired with a heel, it’s hard to resist.

Ever since at least Fall 2007, in both the Prada and Miu Miu shows, they were a feature. And made for one of the best seasons I think they’ve had or have had in years. I know I myself bought at least 3 pairs from Miu Miu that season.

The Miu Miu look started with a very masculine wink using broguing paired with soft neutrals and pastels and fanciful wings.

Miu Miu via Vogue Fall 2007

While Prada went a bit edgier with darker ombre tones and bold colored socks with open toes paired with peep-toe heels.

Prada via Vogue Fall 2007

They kept the sock/heel trend pairing well into shows in 2018 where I was struck by the combination of athletic-influenced socks worn with a traditionally feminine kitten heel and slingback shoe which had this wonderful technical rubberized strap which elevated it from a mere simple pump.

One other subtle element that ties the two brands together are the striking sculpted heels. While Prada was leaning into athleticism, in Fall 2016, Miu Miu was going full princess with big bows on sweet round-toed heels in the most delicious satins, paired with jewels and sculpted metal caps. I loved so many of the colors and was hoping the vertiginous heel heights would make it to production, I felt the candy pink version was the best. A pair that made it into the top 5 of my Under Glass Collection.

The latest addition the my Miu Miu/Prada design chronology is the satin ballet slipper from Miu Miu. Seen as early as Spring 2016, they were paired with mismatched ribbons and grommeted buckle straps, lending a toughness to a traditionally sweet shape.

Miu Miu via Vogue Spring 2016

Now those designs are back in flats and heels for the Fall 2022 Miu Miu show, paired with retro mini skirts but with great socks. Satin, socks, sculpted heels continued on from 2016, yet still fresh and desirable.

Miu Miu via Vogue Fall 2022
Miu Miu via Vogue Fall 2022

But I, of course preferred the heel version…

I’ve stocked up on socks. It’s fun that I can be my own through line over the 15 years of style seasons.

Review – The Museum at FIT exhibit – Shoes: Anatomy, Identity, Magic

Thursday, 9/1 was the opening of the new exhibit at the Museum At FIT, “Shoes: Anatomy, Identity, Magic“. As an obviously avid shoe collector who thinks of footwear as functional art and someone who loves museums, I made it a must-see that very day.

I think to the average viewer, this would be a decent collection of footwear examples, however, I was frankly a bit disappointed. I felt that the analysis of the collection was, for lack of a better word,… “light”. There were some interesting groupings but the juxtapositions they made between styles and designers could have been done much stronger or they could have taken the themes they chose to explore to a much deeper level.

Some of the things I would have like to have seen is how past styles influence designers today (see French Court shoes and Brother Vellie Grandma Stell mules), or a through line from a single designer of their earlier work to later designs. Or how a designer’s mentor influenced and helped to refine another designers style (a la Kirkwood and Sophia Webster – where you can see the strong Kirkwood flow in the 80s style throwback and colors of Webster).

Another interesting link that could have been made is the impact of sports on shoe design. Instead of a wall of very recent sneakers, and instead of showing a recent pair of Thom Browne skate-inspired shoes…

Show the TWO (!!!) 2011 designs that really shook the industry up – by Dsquared2 and Jeffrey Campbell (which I actually talked about back in the day).

Dsquared2 Runway
Jeffrey Campbell Skate

Not to be a humble brag, but when you have been writing about or studying (or collecting shoes) since before 2007, and you have a bit of a photographic memory, you see lots of opportunities and collection combinations. And I also saw a lot pieces I have have are in the exhibit. I mean, yes, even Bergdorf Goodman recognized it…

But let’s run through some examples:
Jimmy Choo Cinderellas – Theirs and mine

Prada Flower Heels – Theirs and mine

They also had the custom Sophia Webster Chiaras in black and rainbow crystal.

Theirs and mine…

There were a few other notable examples like sliver Manolo Blahnik Sedarabys (the SATC “A Woman’s Right to Shoes” d’Orsay heels), some 1920s satin t-bars and examples from Roger Vivier and Charlotte Olympia, where our collections overlapped.

That said, it is always fun to see a collection of shoes. You can look at what they’ve uploaded to their Flickr page. And maybe someday, I’ll do an exhibit of my own!

Note: There was one really interesting piece that shocked me… More to follow!

Banana Republic is Stealing Shoe Designs

I know its been ages since I’ve posted but I had to come out of my semi-closed writing state to comment on what I think is pretty blatant shoe design theft going on over at Banana Republic.

Sure they are knocking off Stuart Weitzman’s Nudist sandals like most other mid-tier brands but they are really not being subtle about these items. The top item in each pair is a current/recent Banana Republic shoe and the bottoms is the pretty obvious “inspiration” –

BR Honey vs Aquazzura Wild Things –

 BR Jasmine vs Alexandre Birman Lolita

BR Jackie vs Prada 2008
 
To me this is the worst one – BR Cadi vs Carven’s bow slingbacks
 

Knocking off is not cool. You can have a unique shoe at any price point. You won’t have any cute shoes if we keep supporting intellectual property theft.

It. Not. Cool.

Wish I was a boy

It’s not often that I say this, but looking at these sweet Prada monkstrap oxfords in deep violet,  I wish I could wear them.  I love the straps, color and distressing.  

There are 3 designs in this special collection from Prada for Bergdorf Goodman’s 111th anniversary. I can’t fit into them and they’re not really my husband’s style. So sad for me, because these are sharp!

Inspiration = Flattery? Prada Fall 2011 Mary Jane vs ModCloth Girl of my Dreams Heel

I don’t typically do two posts on knock-offs in a row but today has been a day filled with them.

 From Jeffrey Campbell (right) straight up thievery from Simone Rocha (left) with their lucite heeled oxford wedges…

 and now this…

I was looking for neon heels when I came upon these Girl of my Dream heels via ModCloth.  And I was stopped in my tracks.  Not because of the bright neon orange color.

But because they are a straight lift from the Fall 2011 Prada RTW runway mary janes.

These mary janes were done as pumps and boots and sandals.  What made them distinctive was the wide strap, that large button and the curvy heel.  All combined to exaggerate the mary jane style and create a new design.  A design created by Prada and “leveraged” by Jeffrey Campbell.

I don’t know why I’m surprised by Jeffrey Campbell or Steve Madden and their stealing of designs.  I scrolled through a page of JC’s on Shopbop and it was nearly every shoe or boot.  They were almost all a lift from a more innovative talented company, just taken and tweaked ever so slightly.

I’ve said it before and I will continue to do so… this is intellectual property theft.  If you admire a designer and their work but you can’t get it or can’t afford it, do you really think it’s better to dilute their work so they, eventually, can’t continue to create or are you fine with someone coming along, dumbing their work down and mass producing it.

Do you support the artists or the thieves

Inspiration = Flattery? Prada Flame Wedge vs ModCloth All Fired Up Wedge

I was not surprised when I saw a flame related accessory on ModCloth today. I mean, with Hunger Games and Katniss as “The Girl on Fire” it’s bound to happen.

But I was surprised to see a wedge with obvious (although poorly executed IMO) knocked off elements.

The Prada Spring/Summer 2012 collection was filled with fiery heels, especially the blazing wedge.  Sure the pair from ModCloth are chunkier and simpler but the shape of the straps and flames at the ankle are identical. 

Haven’t we been here before ModCloth?  Ignorance of your buyers is not an excuse.  I mean, this is a major shoe for the S/S 2012 season.  Do your buyers just not follow the fashion news and world or are they actively looking for “inspired by” pieces?

I know some will argue that it’s making a style available to more people, with just enough distance to not be a true knockoff. And that’s probably true.  I still think it’s too close.

Thoughts?

Flame on cobblestone image via Elle.

Taking a Concept Too Far

It’s the end of January, so you know that means it’s obviously time to look at lovely, airy, delicate Spring shoes. This year there are a few creations that have caught my eye but one in particular I want to discuss… the Prada Spring 2012 RTW 1950s car inspired sandals. 

Now, we know Miuccia loves a good “themed” heel (and so do I says the girl with the Miu Miu red teacup heels as her icon), but while some of the shoes in the past – dragonflies, candlesticks, flowers – have worked well transformed into shoes, I just don’t think these are working for me. 

I do actually love the design of the heels.  I love the sweet toe strap and embellishment, the colors shown and the flame strap.  What takes it just that much too far is the addition of the Grease-esque tail lights on the heel.  I think its that the whimsy of small inspirations or details of larger icons work but try to pull down something big, like a car, and it looks ridiculous.

So, while I won’t be buying the Prada, the family will still get my money because I’m totally smitten with the looks from Miu Miu’s Resort collection.  Prada has the era’s automotive icons but Miu Miu took the fashion… and turned it upside down.  The hemlines are shorter but the patterns are there.  The cardigans, pearls and frame bags echo the era in a fresh way.

But my eyes are all on the bow-bedecked gingham slingbacks.  I’m loving them so much I’m trying for two colors.  The fuchsia…

and the green…

The blue is lovely too and I saw an orange pair on the runway that I loved.  Hmmm.. would 4 pairs be too many???

I have my eyes on a scenic landscape patterned dress I need to get to pair with these.  Then I’ll add a contrasting color cardigan and a wicker vintage purse.  Time for these pre-orders to come in and Spring to hurry up!

What Would You Pair?

I need some help!!!

Last year for my company Christmas party, I asked for your thoughts on two outfit options.   I ended up going with the poofy party dress and Manolos and had a splendid time.  Since you gave such good advice that time, what do you think I should do this year???
I am wearing a sequin sheath dress from JCrew topped with a tuxedo jacket. 

The sequins are patterned in green, cold and silver and there is a raw edged liner as you can see here.

I’m totally considering pairing this with my vintage top hat and the Kate Spade Night Owl bag. 

So here are four narrowed down shoe options I’m considering:

1. Alexander Wang Anais silver tassle pumps

2. Christian Louboutin Yo Yo Zeppa suede peep-toes

3. Manolo Blahnik Urbana Nappa Oro gold sandals

4. Christian Louboutin Lucifer

So what do you think???

I’m leaning towards the Louboutin peep-toes but am totally open to suggestions.  Some back-up options are:

Camilla Skovgaard Chastity Sandals…

Camilla Skovgaard London Pumps…

… or the Prada Endless Spat boots….

What say you????