Shoe Daydreams

Finding the Through Line

I’ve long been a fan of the Miu Miu/Prada design element through lines. Whether it was design inspiration like fairies and flowers, down to straps and materials.

In the latest collection for Miu Miu Fall 2022, Miuccia has continued to use one of my favorite elements… socks. And when perfectly paired with a heel, it’s hard to resist.

Ever since at least Fall 2007, in both the Prada and Miu Miu shows, they were a feature. And made for one of the best seasons I think they’ve had or have had in years. I know I myself bought at least 3 pairs from Miu Miu that season.

The Miu Miu look started with a very masculine wink using broguing paired with soft neutrals and pastels and fanciful wings.

While Prada went a bit edgier with darker ombre tones and bold colored socks with open toes paired with peep-toe heels.

They kept the sock/heel trend pairing well into shows in 2018 where I was struck by the combination of athletic-influenced socks worn with a traditionally feminine kitten heel and slingback shoe which had this wonderful technical rubberized strap which elevated it from a mere simple pump.

One other subtle element that ties the two brands together are the striking sculpted heels. While Prada was leaning into athleticism, in Fall 2016, Miu Miu was going full princess with big bows on sweet round-toed heels in the most delicious satins, paired with jewels and sculpted metal caps. I loved so many of the colors and was hoping the vertiginous heel heights would make it to production, I felt the candy pink version was the best. A pair that made it into the top 5 of my Under Glass Collection.

The latest addition the my Miu Miu/Prada design chronology is the satin ballet slipper from Miu Miu. Seen as early as Spring 2016, they were paired with mismatched ribbons and grommeted buckle straps, lending a toughness to a traditionally sweet shape.

Now those designs are back in flats and heels for the Fall 2022 Miu Miu show, paired with retro mini skirts but with great socks. Satin, socks, sculpted heels continued on from 2016, yet still fresh and desirable.

But I, of course preferred the heel version…

I’ve stocked up on socks. It’s fun that I can be my own through line over the 15 years of style seasons.

Preferring Pink

Posted on September 16 by Shoe Daydreams

Is it even worth writing about pink? Pink has always been popular but now it’s ubiquitous. Its staying power shocks even more so than an iteration of shocking pink.

Growing up with Hello Kitty in the 80s, pink was always there but it was never my thing (outside of work) but now there is no escaping it. And it’s amusing me to see it surge even higher than the last 10 years of living with Millennial Pink would have led you to expect.

Funny Face, 1957

People are passionate about pink.

I was even following a Twitter poll about the best shade of pink…

*I was hoping it would be #fc0fc0 or #ff1ddcf*

Alas the winner, somehow was Baker-Miller pink, a yawn-worthy pink with a troublesome history…

But strong pink (aka Barbie Pink) is back. And if you thought Millennial Pink was everywhere, there will be no escaping it. Whether it’s actual Barbie movie fashion and collaborations, Valentino’s PP Pink for Fall 2022 RTW or Oscar de la Renta’s French Pink, Pantone’s 2022 Very Peri or 2023’s Digital Lavender never had a real chance to outshine the REAL winning color… PINK.

I have plenty of pink but even I’m ready for a brighter dose of fun. Zara got in the game with some flower flats in the hot shade.

Ready for Fall. Ready for Spring 2023. Will this vibrant pink last or burn away?

Hey, Stud! – A shocking surprise at The Museum at FIT

Posted on September 11 by Shoe Daydreams

In my previous post where I reviewed the “Shoes: Anatomy, Identity, Magic” exhibition at The Museum at FIT, I alluded to a shocking surprise I discovered when entering the exhibit.

I expected to see a range of styles and to be familiar with all or most, and when I walked up to this particular display, even from several steps away, I knew what I was seeing before I got close but I was WRONG!

I recognize those boots… They’re the Chloé Susanna boot. Introduced in 2008 and still going strong in 2022 with multiple color options available in top end stores but also relentlessly duped.

Chloé Susanna boots in black and gold, 2022

But then I looked at the caption and my mind was blown:

How is this possible. I mean, look at them. Those are near on identical.

I don’t follow men’s fashion much. And in 1992 I was no where near literate about fashion, especially Versace. But how I have never even heard a whiff of a rumor about this???

So I had to do more digging to see what was happening with Versace men’s runway for Spring 1992 and it is real. This show was covered in gold stud work. It was the central theme in my opinion. I mean, check out this jacket I found on Etsy from a reseller/OG owner:

Then I struck GOLD!

This is definitely the season and around the 9:00min mark is when you start to see the pieces with the Greek key design in studded leather, specifically the jackets. What. A. Show.

Not sure if anyone else will find this as mind-blowing as me but hey, this is why I love shoes!

Added bonus: Here’s the Vogue coverage of the Versace women’s Spring 1992 collection.

Review – The Museum at FIT exhibit – Shoes: Anatomy, Identity, Magic

Posted on September 4 by Shoe Daydreams

Thursday, 9/1 was the opening of the new exhibit at the Museum At FIT, “Shoes: Anatomy, Identity , Magic“. As an obviously avid shoe collector who thinks of footwear as functional art and someone who loves museums, I made it a must-see that very day.

I think to the average viewer, this would be a decent collection of footwear examples, however, I was frankly a bit disappointed. I felt that the analysis of the collection was, for lack of a better word,… “light”. There were some interesting groupings but the juxtapositions they made between styles and designers could have been done much stronger or they could have taken the themes they chose to explore to a much deeper level.

Some of the things I would have like to have seen is how past styles influence designers today (see French Court shoes and Brother Vellie Grandma Stell mules), or a through line from a single designer of their earlier work to later designs. Or how a designer’s mentor influenced and helped to refine another designers style (a la Kirkwood and Sophia Webster – where you can see the strong Kirkwood flow in the 80s style throwback and colors of Webster).

Another interesting link that could have been made is the impact of sports on shoe design. Instead of a wall of very recent sneakers, and instead of showing a recent pair of Thom Browne skate-inspired shoes…

Show the TWO (!!!) 2011 designs that really shook the industry up – by Dsquared2 and Jeffrey Campbell (which I actually talked about back in the day).

Not to be a humble brag, but when you have been writing about or studying (or collecting shoes) since before 2007, and you have a bit of a photographic memory, you see lots of opportunities and collection combinations. And I also saw a lot pieces I have have are in the exhibit. I mean, yes, even Bergdorf Goodman recognized it…

But let’s run through some examples:
Jimmy Choo Cinderellas – Theirs and mine

Prada Flower Heels – Theirs and mine

The full name is the Spuntate Raso Chic Pump, circa 2007

They also had the custom Sophia Webster Chiaras in black and rainbow crystal.

Theirs and mine…

There were a few other notable examples like sliver Manolo Blahnik Sedarabys (the SATC “A Woman’s Right to Shoes” d’Orsay heels), some 1920s satin t-bars and examples from Roger Vivier and Charlotte Olympia, where our collections overlapped.

That said, it is always fun to see a collection of shoes. You can look at what they’ve uploaded to their Flickr page. And maybe someday, I’ll do an exhibit of my own!

Note: There was one really interesting piece that shocked me… More to follow!

Imitation = Flattery? Finding designs at Zara

Posted on August 25 by Shoe Daydreams

For years I’ve done an Imitation = Flattery? series on the blog. As mentioned before, I work in a creative industry and I value the work of artists and designers. I really dislike seeing their work knocked off. Everyone should, because if talented people stop thinking it’s worth it to put out their work for public consumption, we all will be a little bit poorer in the world with its loss.

I also think cute design can be found at any price point. I think companies who rip off designs are just lazy. Materials and production values can change but design can live no matter the cost. And as someone with a photographic memory, I see the influences all over, some more egregious than others.

Let’s use Zara, a fast fashion icon. Granted, I love Zara. They have a pulse on trends like no one else and their quality is better than most other brands in their category. But even they aren’t above lifting designs and then tweaking enough to keep them out of trouble. Some people love this about them. But some times they go a bit too far.

When I see these cream d’orsay pumps, for example,

I see the Valentino Garavani Roman Stud pumps…

Same toe box, same strong gold single embellishment. Same chunky heel. Just the ankle strap differs.

Then with their black chain slide sandals, they mimic the Bottega Veneta square toe, plus…

They’re an obvious call bank to the JW Anderson iconic sandals

But these last ones are the ones that could get them a slap on wrist if not a cease and desist. Zara has put out a 3 strap Mary Jane…

They, on the surface, copy all the details of the Louboutin Veronica Mary Jane pumps from last season.. While they don’t have the iridescent patent red (the pair I have)…

But compare them to the Louboutin black patent. The lines and production values of the Louboutin are more graceful with a better and more fluid strap placement but you can see exactly where Zara took their “inspiration”…

Suffice it to say, I’m not a fan of this. I want unique designs at all ranges. I know it can be done. Yes, I’m selfish too. I want to keep seeing the artistry and architecture that marries in footwear design. I hope fast fashion doesn’t take that from us.

In Love with Design

Posted on August 16 by Shoe Daydreams

One thing I love is independent design. So a site I keep my eye on is Young British Designers. They always have a great mix of new fresh pieces with an artistic focus.

One of the first pairs of shoes I bought post-move to NYC was actually discovered from them. I was smitten by the Camilla Elphick Lover flats in Silver. Not only are they practical for walking but they also have a sweet secret heart. ❤ How can you resist?!?

But I also had my eye on these striking pendants from Lily Kamper. She’s combined hand-crafting with resin into a very organic mineral look. I was most captured by the turquoise-y/malachite looking piece.

But really all of her pieces in resin are so striking. And not at all subtle… my favorite!

Much of her work now is focused on custom design and pendants with minerals and precious stones but her strong aesthetic really shines.

Kitten on the Move

Posted on August 15 by Shoe Daydreams

The City Summer heat finally broke so it was lovely to get outside this weekend. The Carnelian Kitten came along. On Saturday we stopped by Cleopatra’s Needle outside The Met.

Then on Sunday it was back to the Park for a picnic under the trees…

I hope your weekend was a glorious.

The Carnelian Kitten… and a Happy Birthday to me!

Posted on August 9 by Shoe Daydreams

I have long been a fan of vintage jewelry. In fact I started collecting pieces when I was in high school. From lovely enameled and glass necklace, earring, bracelet, ring sets to a very fanciful winged dragon necklace, my taste was pretty eclectic.

I also love art, ancient craftsmanship and museums. One day, probably on Pinterest, I saw the most charming ring. A tiny carnelian kitten, perched upright atop a gold circle ring. A possible homage to the goddess Bastet and currently residing (though not on display, I think) at the British Museum, this ring is from the Third Intermediate Period and a possible 3000-ish years old. It was donated in 1947 by Maj Robert Grenville Gayer-Anderson, a British army surgeon, administrator and collector, given the title of Pasha by King Farouk in 1942 after giving his home Beit el-Kiridliya to the people of Egypt.

The carved base has a wedjat of the Eye of Horus and the kitten swivels on the axis.

I always joked that if I was to steal something from a museum it might be this especially since I’d not seen even a reproduction made, surprisingly. However my dear husband had been listening and undertook to recreate the treasure just for me!

Over many months, he reached out to an extremely helpful museum curator who took out the piece and provided him with tons of measurements and pictures which were then used by our talented friend, award-winning jeweler Wendy Brandes. She helped source a carnelian and gem carver in Germany and then worked with her goldsmith to create a new 18kt cold version of the ring.

It is stunning in person and I was overwhelmed to say the least. That 6 people, including my mother-in-law helping to facilitate and keep the secret, in 4 countries conspired to make a gift for me is stunning. He even sourced and themed box from Ukraine to place the ring in.

Once it was gifted to me, we thought it would be fun to take it to the Egyptian wing at the Met to take a few shots like the one above and in front of some similar swivel rings.

It truly is a gift for the ages and one I will cherish always. Follow the #TheCarnelianKitten on IG to follow it’s adventures.

Coming back for a call out – Imitation = Flattery? Atlantic-Pacific x Halogen edition

Posted on August 9 by Shoe Daydreams

Eons ago (10 years!) in blog world, I called out an early influencer’s collaboration “collection” as being a pieced together mishmash of design elements lifted from well-known and established brands’ pieces. And over the years I’ve tried to point out knock-offs in my “Imitation = Flattery?” series.

Sadly, this hasn’t stopped even a decade on.

The latest, pretty egregious, set of products got me riled up enough to post.

I’m a big fan of Blair Eadie’s style. I have no idea where she keeps it all and I’m sure the overwhelming majority is gifted to her but, I still like a lot of the same things she likes. I just wouldn’t have the nerve to take a bunch of high end designer pieces from my closet and then work with a company to dumb them down and mass produce them.

If you can tell me these aren’t nearly straight lifts, I’d be astonished.

Blair has said she loves a printed furry coat, especially from Shrimps, which is know for these bold styles –

Here’s the coat from the A-P x Halogen collection.

Taking shoe inspiration from others really sets me off. Here’s Blair wearing Prada patent, stacked-platform oxfords a while back and a close up of a pair from that same collection.

And then there’s the styles from her “designs”…

I might have become the most mad about the triple-bow tops and dresses because she’s making so much of them on her site. Well, here’s the ASOS dress (top) the inspiration it came from. I bought this dress too. A bit miffed to see it knocked-off as if the A-P versions (bottom) are totally new.

And last, but certainly not the least example, is the Prince of Wales plaid blazer with faux fur cuffs. The collection version is cute with the pink for sure..

But I wonder how Fendi feels about being ripped off…

Pretty clear where the inspo came from, huh???

Her “collection” is filled with prints and tiered tulle skirts – very a la the pieces she wears from Red Valentino and Viktor and Rolf. I think its all very cute but I don’t think intellectual property theft is a label I’d want to wear.

Atlantic-Pacific images sourced from:

colors of the west village //

FAUX FUR & COLORED SUITS //

FEELING FALL // PLAID IN PARIS

FENDI RESORT // VEUVE CLICQUOT LOS ANGELES

This post originally posted on October 10, 2019.

Another year – 12!

Posted on July 31, 2019 by Shoe Daydreams